Kessi World

Mindful travel around the Pacific Northwest.

Overnight at Heceta Head Lighthouse — a favorite Oregon Coast experience

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Heceta Head Lighthouse is iconic, with red metal roof and white scrubbed stucco exterior. The blue sky above has puffy clouds and the grass is a bright green.
Matthew Kessi stands in front of the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast, with a white picket fence framing in the yard. The lighthouse is in the background.
A delicate mushroom grows on the forest floor on the Oregon Coast. The thin gills are a butter yellow color with a creme brûlée brown top color. There are a few blades of green grass in between twigs and moss.
A wooden sign props up the information about the Hobbit Trail and the Heceta Head Trail with the backdrop dense green foliage and spruce trees.
The front of the charming Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast. The rood is bright red while the shake siding of the historic building is a pristine white color. On the front porch are three adairondack chairs.
Sunbeams shine through a forest full of thin spruce trees. The trail passes through sword ferns and other bright green ground cover.
A canning jar full of agates sits next to a sign about respecting the ocean along the Oregon Coast.
The rugged rocks and mountains from the viewpoint of Heceta Head Lighthouse. The Highway 101 bridge is also visible under a swirl of gray clouds within a bright blue sky.
A lace tablecloth holds a plate with cheese, sliced apple and mixed nuts. There is a placard that reads Lightkeeper, for the name of the room, as well as a glass of rose wine.
Matthew Kessi poses for a selfie under the rainbow sunbeams filtering through the forest. He's smiling and wearing a green cap and jacket.
The beach at the base of Heceta Head Lighthouse. On the bluff the bed and breakfast is visible with white outside and red roof and trim. There are rocks on the beach that lead to smooth sand and the waves in the distance.
The porch of the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast has a lone Adairondack chair and some pumpkins next to a planter. The lighthouse can be seen in the distance beyond the green grassy lawn framed in by a white picket fence.
The Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast shines in the sunlight, along with an American flag flying in the green grass yard surrounded by a white picket fence.
A brown sign with a drawing in white paint indicates the lighthouse is following the arrow to the right of the picture. There are green plants behind the sign as well as wooden fence posts.

Visiting the Oregon Coast is coming home for me.  I’ve only ever known the waves crashing on the sand or spitting up through rock stacks.  The salty mist seems to cover everything with a sticky resin that helps me connect to the wild beauty of the State that raised me.  I set out on an adventure from Seattle to re-engage my longing to connect with familiar and new things.  One thing new was an intimate opportunity to experience the Heceta Head Lighthouse (pronounced “Ha – SEE – Ta” by most). This inspiring stay will be added to my article about My favorite unique Pacific Northwest hotels.

This article provides information on visiting Heceta Head Lighthouse — Table of Contents.

Getting started — my adventure begins in Seattle.

The drive from Seattle to the Oregon Coast is long — just three hours to arrive at Astoria, Oregon — but worth the effort.  As I cross the Astoria Bridge into Oregon, my heart sings a welcome song.  The next few days are spent wandering down iconic Highway 101, which rides the coastline waves from the Olympic Peninsula to San Diego. 

My journey takes me through Tillamook, Netarts, Neskowin, Glendelan Beach, and Newport before this magical experience begins.  While all these places have their unique features, the area of the Oregon Coast around Yachats (yaw-HOTZ) seems to enter into another realm.

The road opens up after Waldport, and the squeeze of land between the Siuslaw National Forest and the jagged coastline gives me a feeling of freedom.  A few houses are scattered along the way, between scenic viewpoints and coastal parks with nebulous terms like “Scenic Marine Research Area.”

Yachats, Oregon

A wide view of a beach near Heceta Head Lighthouse. A person is walking their dog in the reflection of the watery sand, reflecting the blue sky above.
A plate of food that includes a delicious veggie burger, pickle and onions and asian slaw. A glass of water accompanies this plate on a wooden slated table.
A cardboard sign promotes a local art gallery opening in Yachats, on the Oregon Coast.
Yachats, Oregon is the largest town near Heceta Head Lighthouse. A woman in a pink coat walks on the beach with her dog while hundreds of seagulls hang out on the wide sandy beach.
A blue valve SUV is parked along the Oregon Coastline near Yachats Oregon. The surf is crashing on rock stacks while the town and all the houses are across the water.

Yachats is the main town in this region, but with a population of about 700 full-time residents, it gives a cozy small-town vibe.  There are no stoplights, just a collection of eclectic eateries and shops.  I welcome the nonexistent cell service because it helps me feel disconnected under the best circumstances.

The town hugs the swirl of elements that make up the junction between the Yachats River and the mighty Pacific Ocean — sandy spits, rocky stacks, and twisted spruce.  After pondering life in a small coastal town while parked at the Yachats Ocean Road State Natural Site, I push on to Cape Perpetua, only a few more miles down the road. (For more information on Yachats, check out a dedicated article.)

The natural wonderland of Cape Perpetua

The churning waters of the Oregon Coast at Cape Perpetua.
Licorice ferns grow on the bark of a red alder amongst a forest trail, which can be seen in the background weaving through the forest.
A wooden sign points in opposite directions for two hiking trails in the forested areas of Cape Perpetua near Heceta Head Lighthouse. The trail is formed by wood chips while the green vegetation offers various textures of sword fern, grasses, moss, and trees.
The viewpoint from atop Cape Perpetua from a stone shelter. The sky is a cloudy stormy swirl and the waves of the Pacific Ocean on the Oregon Coast can be seen far below.
A wooden sign engraved with directions for hikers points to tide pools and the visitor center at Cape Perpetua. The sky is blue and the sign is surrounded by tall Salal bushes.

Cape Perpetua is another nebulous nature zone that isn’t a National or State Park but isn’t National Forest, either.  However, since it’s located within the Siuslaw National Forest, the Forest Service manages the parking areas.  This is great for me since I have annual America the Beautiful Pass.  I hang the card in a holder on my dash and head out to explore.  

Look for another article coming about this beautiful zone of pristine goodness, complete with an old-growth Sitka spruce hike, dramatic viewpoints, and impressive cauldrons of foamy seawater gushing through snaggle rock stacks.  

Although I could watch Thor’s Well all day, the time came to mosey down the road to find my lodging for the night.  Since I’m only a few miles away, I make a few stops to take in the coastal views.  In particular, the Sea Perch RV park looks fascinating, with the various vehicles perched almost precariously on a short sandy dune just above the swollen surf.  

Arriving at Heceta Head State Scenic Viewpoint

Oregon Coast scene featuring Heceta Head Lighthouse and the nearby Bed and Breakfast with layers of surf floating in and pounding on the rocks. The mountains rise up, covered in evergreen trees.
The beach at the base of Heceta Head Lighthouse. On the bluff the bed and breakfast is visible with white outside and red roof and trim. There are rocks on the beach that lead to smooth sand and the waves in the distance.
The Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast shines in the sunlight, along with an American flag flying in the green grass yard surrounded by a white picket fence.
A forest scene along the Oregon Coast reveals the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast, almost hidden in the spruce trees and the deco style bridge of Highway 101 in the distance amongst misty forest and swirling gray skies.
The Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast appears through snuggled spruce trees. The pristine white building pops against the red chimney and roof.

Since I’ve made my peace without a technology device providing me coordinates, I enter into an unknown world of twists and turns along Highway 101 that seems to go deeper into the thickets of neck-high salal and battered Sitka spruce that drape over the roadway.  I see a simple sign that says, “Heceta Head,” and look for a roadway, which sneaks up quickly. 

I wind my way down to a parking area literally on the beach and open the door to a swell of salty air and the drum of waves crashing against everything from the fine sandy beach to rock stacks.  This is clearly the park’s day-use area, but I walk toward the beach to survey the scene.  Upon a bluff overlooking the water, I see the crisp white and red coloring of the Heceta Head Bed & Breakfast.  Excitement rushes me, knowing this will be my home for the night.     

Further, in the distance, I can make out the Heceta Head Lighthouse on the extreme edge of the land — just where you’d expect they’d build a beacon of light.  I’m a bit confused about how to get to the Heceta Head Bed & Breakfast and grab my pack to start walking.  The steep hill continues through a wild coastal forest until a large lawn opens like theatre curtains to the white picket fence surrounding the historical lightkeepers’ house.  

Several other buildings were built around 1900 to house the families assigned to tend to the lighthouse, but only one remains.  All the supplies to build the lighthouse and outbuildings were shipped on a boat, dropped on the beach below, and carted up to this landing.  

Sometimes when the tide was low enough, they’d hitch up a wagon and horses and race around the head to visit places like Florence for supplies.  It must’ve been a hard life despite the unbridled beauty of the sea.  

A room with a view — Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast

View from a bedroom window looking at the shining light of the Heceta Lighthouse. The yard in the foreground is full of green grass and surrounded by a white picket fence.
The front of the charming Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast. The rood is bright red while the shake siding of the historic building is a pristine white color. On the front porch are three adairondack chairs.
A plate with ornate cheese, sliced apples and mixed nuts sits on an Adirondack chair next to a glass of rose wine. In the background is a green grassy yard framed in by a white picket fence and a lighthouse in the background.
White picket fence frames in the grassy green yard and deck posts. The view looks out to the layers of mountains covered with trees that lead down to the foaming waves of the Pacific Ocean.
The view from the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast out a colorful stained glass bordered window looking to the sea.

I check into the Bed and Breakfast and learn that I missed the small road leading from Highway 101 to the lodging and return to fetch my car.  In all the excitement, I didn’t display my parking pass and found a yellow slip of paper with a warning.  Remember to pay for parking!  

The Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast has six rooms that seem to take up the most historic floor plan of the duplex.  The US Forest Service owns the building but is operated by a contractor year-round as an authentic Bed and Breakfast — versus Airbnb or VRBO.  

My room is the only one with a direct view up to the Heceta Head Lighthouse, which makes me happy.  The other rooms either look back at the garden or out to the sea (obviously the best views).  I open the double-hung window completely to let the sea air fill the room.  My dedicated bathroom is just across the hall but I don’t mind — it comes complete with a claw foot bathtub.  

The parlor area is packed with historic photos and fun quips about lighthouse living.  It’s a mini-museum decorated with charming pieces of nostalgia.  A full operating kitchen is provided for use, but I plan to enjoy dinner in Yachats at the restaurant owned by the same operator of the B&B.

Nature’s light shines bright at Heceta Head Lighthouse

Daniel (who works for the B&B) offers a friendly welcome when I check in and provides me with an ornate cheese plate and a glass of wine to take out to the front porch.  I find an Adirondack chair facing the surf and enjoy a happy hour like no other in recent memory.  A few other guests are situated in their own part of the deck and we all seem pulled into the trance of the crashing waves.  

The sun is getting heavy on the horizon so I make my way up the road to the lighthouse.  It’s an easy quarter mile to the iconic beauty — said to be the most photographed on the Oregon Coast.  The light became automatic with new technology in the 1960s and now shines 21 miles over the ocean at night — the brightest light on the Oregon Coast.  I wonder if this bright light will be shining into my eyes all night long!    

A few of the other guests also gather along the waist-high chain link fence to watch the brilliant flows of orange and pink cascade over the sky.  And like a metronome, the forces of the ocean serve up wave after wave that smash against the rocks, spitting up foam and mist that drifts up to my face.  At the same time the sense of calm provided by this commanding scene gives me a feeling of complete relaxation.  I stay until the sun has completely disappeared for the evening.

The 14-mile drive to Yachats this time of night is easy and I manage to get a seat in the lounge area of the busy Ona Restaurant and Lounge.  My house-made veggie burger is outstanding as well as the caesar salad and I bring a slice of the upside-down orange cake back to the B&B with me.  

Heceta Head Lighthouse sits on the edge of a 1000 foot cliff leading to the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean. The trees around the lighthouse are various shades of green and the sky and ocean are bright blue.
Sunset over the Pacific Ocean shedding orange and yellow hues across the horizon. The waves are foamy and crashing against the water.
The sun is setting over the Pacific Ocean as the surf crashes against the rocks which are covered in green ground cover and spruce trees.
Heceta Head Lighthouse in the dusk hour with clouds in a blue sky beginning to turn a touch of pink.
Oregon Coast sunset. Butter yellow amongst a swirl of gray clouds with blue sky speckled in the background. The waves are rolling in on the ocean offering white caps and misty spray.

21-mile night light

When I arrive back, the lighthouse’s beam is in full effect, slowing swirling faint dots in a circular fashion around the trees on the shoreline, and then into the abyss of the dark ocean.  It isn’t as bright as I imagined, just a series of repetitive blinks.  My home away from home provides flashlights to use to walk up to the lighthouse, a privilege only given to the B&B guests.  

The walk is almost eerie now because the park is closed and there are no other people around me.  Under cover of the thick spruce, the world morphs into a mysterious realm of dense protection, even as the waves hammer over and over.  The thicket parts and the shining light at the top of the red and white tower doesn’t skip a beat, as if my inner workings are kept safe.

The glow of a partial moon only gives a faint color to the complex topography — enough for me to make outlines of mountains, trees, rocks, and waves — that feels like an animation.  The beam of the beacon above my head casts a glow like a disco ball revolving on a dance floor and all at once, I feel the sense I’m at a private party for one.

I ponder what ships out there, within the 21-mile range might see this light.  How might my light be that bright in my own life?  It’s a quiet moment of reflection.

The window remains fully open and when I turn off the lamp next to the bed I see my friend, the lighthouse, swirling a refined glow that will be just enough to lull me to sleep knowing I have a friend, a light, watching over me.  The child within me sleeps in a complete feeling of security and protection — and the soft linens only add to the sublime feeling of falling asleep in a lighthouse on a bluff — the lullaby of the waves singing me to sleep. 

Step into my parlor — Victorian breakfast delights

The interior of the Heceta Lighthouse B&B offers a look at Victorian elegance even in the rural part of the Oregon Coast. The fire is roaring and this view is through the view of a large wall mirror.
Bananas and apples in sauce shine in a green depression glass bowl with out of focus table cloth and fork.
The parlor of the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast, ready for the morning brunch. The table is decorated with ornate china and the view out the window is of the ocean swells of waves.
Ornate morsels of food on a plate on a lace tablecloth. Includes an orange nasturtium flower, a narrow triangular wedge of cheese and a slice of date.
A delicious looking red strawberry smoothie with a slice of strawberry and some whipped cream in a glass.

I awake to the crisp blue sky that creates the perfect backdrop to make the Heceta Head Lighthouse pop in the view from my bed.  I don’t want to leave this cocoon of bliss, but the seven-course breakfast awaits downstairs.  

Each course is presented with thoughtful fanfare and delicate dishes, and I talk about the Oregon Coast with a couple sitting across from me, visiting from Salem.  We discuss the special feeling of this location and the hike to the Hobbit Trail I plan to make after checkout. 

The Hobbit Trail — “Middle Earth” hike delights

The four-mile round trip hike to Hobbit Beach and back checks about every box I’d want on a quintessential Oregon Coast nature walk:  a lighthouse, views from jagged cliffs, fantasy forests, regular forests, path through salal thickets, moss draping over tree branches, a grotesque crab shell collection, and, of course, an expansive uncrowded stretch of sandy beach. To learn about more soul-nourishing hikes like this, check out my article: Ten of the best Oregon Coast hikes to reclaim your soul.

The journey feels like something out of Lord of the Rings, so the Hobbit Trail and Hobbit Beach are very aptly named.  I return to my vehicle energized and tired from the up and down seesaw of activity.  

Matthew Kessi poses for a selfie on a hike over Heceta Head. The beautiful Oregon Coastline is far below in the distance, with waves rolling into the sandy coastline. He's wearing a green cap and a blue swather with a lime green raincoat.
Sunbeams shine through a forest full of thin spruce trees. The trail passes through sword ferns and other bright green ground cover.
Large spruce trees create a mystical grove at the top of Heceta Head on the hiking trails.
Thick dense forest scene along the Oregon Coast with moss covered trees in a jungle like setting.
A view from Hobbit Beach on the Oregon Coast toward Heceta Head. The steep mountain has layers of spruce trees, sanding banks, green ground cover and basalt cliffs.

Heceta Head Lighthouse — more around every bend

Next on the docket is a tour of the remaining cliffs along Highway 101, which include the fabulous Sea Lion Caves.  The rickety elevator descends into an animal kingdom where these giant sea mammals are king — barking and belching their fish breath toward the crowd.

It doesn’t give me an appetite for seafood, but my hunger entices me to visit the famous dunes of Florence.  Like people searching for mushrooms around the massive flows of sand, my foraging for food takes me to the charming historic downtown, along the Siuslaw River, and I find just the right grub at Homegrown.  The food quality feels homegrown indeed, and a sign in the restroom mentions that I’m supporting over 10 local families by eating here.  

Even though my adventure continues for a few more days, the Heceta Head Lighthouse experience is one for the memory books.  In addition to all the obvious wow of a scene from a movie, the way my time here seemed to open up my soul to the true mystery of nature’s power makes me both shudder and smile. 

Interactive Map — Heceta Head and environs

Just passing through? No problem

Follow signs on Highway 101 for the Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint (that’s a mouthful!) down the road to the beach. Day-use parking is $7 and a machine accepts credit cards. While the spaces next to the beach were wide open when I visited, I also noticed an auxiliary parking area opposite the bridge. The beach provides great views of Heceta Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast and the lighthouse is visible — albeit trees layer into the view.

The hike from the parking area to the Lighthouse is about half a mile on a paved uphill roadway with no steps. Near the Bed & Breakfast is a gift shop with a restroom. While the charming Lightkeeper’s House is closed to non-guests (they’re very strict about this), you can still walk in front of the white picket fence to snap photos.

If you want one iconic hike for your visit to the Oregon Coast, the Heceta Head Trail to the Hobbit Trail (leading to the beach) is it! A statuesque lighthouse, sweeping coastal views, interesting forests, and the fabulously mossy Hobbit Beach Trail really surprise and delight the entire way. It’s a four-mile round trip from the parking lot, and the 800-foot elevation gain in each direction will keep your heart beating.

The alternative, easier way to experience the Hobbit Trail is to park along Highway 101 at the trailhead that is only a half-mile to the beach. It is located about a mile north of the Heceta Head Lighthouse turn-off from Highway 101. The trail is relatively easy but there are areas of moderate uphill climb and a few steps along the way.

The best view to capture the Lighthouse and the Bed & Breakfast building is on the bridge crossing Cape Creek on Highway 101. However, the shoulder is narrow so do be extremely careful. Alternatively, there is a convenient pull-out marked “Lighthouse and Sealion Vantage Point” about a mile south of the State Park (heading toward Florence).

If you go — getting there and B&B tips

Driving to Haceta Head Lighthouse

Heceta Head Lighthouse is in between the towns of Yachats and Florence on the Central Oregon Coast — about 14 miles from each. Most people drive here from other places on the Coast or the population centers in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. It makes sense to integrate Heceta Head with either an epic drive along the entire Oregon Coast or a combination trip (like the one this article is based upon).

Here are some general driving distances for reference:

  • From Eugene, Oregon (the closest point to Interstate 5) — 90 minutes, 73 miles.
  • From Portland, Oregon — 3+ hours (depending on traffic), 183 miles.
  • From Astoria, Oregon (the northernmost city on the Oregon Coast) — 4+ hours, 171 miles.
  • From Seattle, Washington — 6+ hours (depending on traffic), 356 miles.

Flying to Oregon

If you’re coming from farther away, the Eugene Airport (EUG) would be the easiest option. You can book nonstop flights from Seattle, San Francisco, LAX, Phoenix, Salt Lake City, and Denver — and of course through those hubs from anywhere in the world. Portland International Airport (PDX) is the largest airport in Oregon and would provide additional service options.

Helpful tips when staying at the Haceta Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast

The Bed & Breakfast is an amazing experience, but since there are only 6 rooms it could be considered a splurge. Here is the rundown on the rooms:

  • Mariners I & II have direct ocean views and are the most desirable.
  • Lightkeeper’s Room is the one I enjoyed and I loved the view of the lighthouse. The bathroom is across the hall (not shared) and only has a claw foot tub, which I didn’t mind.
  • Victoria’s Room faces the garden and has a private bathroom with shower. This is a cozy room.
  • Queen Anne Room is cool, with the four post queen bed and also has views of the garden. This room shares a bathroom with the Cape Cove Room and has a great claw foot tub.
  • Cape Cove Room looks toward the cool bridge, but shares a bathroom across the hall with claw foot tub. Probably the least desirable room.

This is not a place to get in late and leave early. The essence is in enjoying the golden hour from the chairs on the porch and then taking in the sunset at the lighthouse — then savoring the truly delectable breakfast the next morning. Tips to maximize your experience here:

  • Breakfast is served promptly at 8:30AM (this may change but confirm with the house) and takes at least an hour.
  • Check out is 11 AM but they allow vehicles to stay parked in the private lot until about 2:30 PM, which makes the perfect opportunity to check out, hike the Haceta Head Trail, and return in time to fetch your car.
  • Not entirely clear ahead of time, but there is a private driveway from Highway 101 (just before the sign to the State Park if heading south) that leads to parking adjacent to the B&B. Be looking because it sneaks up fast (mentioned above).
  • The B&B has WIFI which is okay. There isn’t reliable cell service but near the Lighthouse seems to have some signal. But this is the type of place enjoyed “unconnected”.
  • The house has several fun packages to help you celebrate special occasions. Take a look at their website for more details.

Places to stay other than the B&B

It is easy to experience most of the wonderful parts of Heceta Head without staying at the B&B. If you’re looking for lodging options check out my article on Yachats, Oregon. Searose Beach would be a great area to search on Airbnb or VRBO and there are some quirky places in and around Yachats. There are great camping options and, of course, Florence, Oregon also has a large variety of options.

This bed and breakfast enjoys a solid word-of-mouth reputation, so they “fly under the radar” when it comes to hotel booking platforms and online searches. If you’re interested in my other favorite hidden gems like this, check out my 25 hidden Oregon and Washington Hotels article.

Need help planning an Oregon Coast itinerary?

If you’re interested in more detailed itineraries on the Oregon Coast and elsewhere in the Pacific Northwest, sign up for my email newsletter to access my entire Adventure Library, complete with all my itineraries — they include checklists of key things to do and more. There is an easy place to sign up below this article.

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Not ready to go now? Pin one of these for later

This Pinterest pin shows The Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast shines in the sunlight, along with an American flag flying in the green grass yard surrounded by a white picket fence.
This Pinterest pin shows an eagle's eye view of Heceta Head with waves crashing on rocks below.
This Pinterest Pin shows a variety of photos depicting Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast.