Kessi World

Reunite with the land.

Photos that make me yearn for the old sod — County Donegal, Ireland

by

The buttery glow of a winter sunset begins to take over the gray cloudy sky behind the prominent rise of Muckish Mountain. In the foreground is abundant peat bogs and rolling hills of green pastures with sheep grazing. The is a typical landscape in Donegal, in northwest Ireland.

Welcome to County Donegal, located in the wild Northwestern section of the Republic of Ireland. Half of my heritage hails from this part of the world, and I feel a strong sense of connection to this especially mystic region of the Emerald Isle. From North Atlantic surf crashing onto broad sandy beaches to the dramatic contrasts between tranquil lakes and lofty mountains, the region’s diversity combines many spheres in a magical, off-the-beaten-path kind of way. May this County Donegal Ireland photo gallery inspire your Celtic dreams to explore the wonders of this corner of Europe.

Donegal Map Placeholder
Donegal Map

Donegal family farms

My great grandmother was born in a small grouping of farms between Falcarrah and Dunfanaghy, known as Fawnmore (Fan-More). One of many children, she left to America at age 16 to start a new life.

A road sign along a main route in County Donegal in Ireland. The sign says Fan Mor in Irish and Fawnmore in English and has a black arrow pointing to the area off the road. In the background are rolling green hills and taller mountains in the background with blue sky peeking through fluffy grayish sunset clouds.

Meanwhile, only a few miles away on Horn Head, my great grandfather was also preparing to head to America. His family struggled farming an inhospitable peninsula of land projecting out into the North Atlantic.

A rock wall frames in this shot of a green pasture on the wild peninsula of Horn Head near Dunfanaghy in Donegal Ireland. There are two modern Irish houses with white walls, red doors and slate roof and an older, rock built home that also has a red door. In the distance you can see the rugged Irish coastline and the North Atlantic Ocean.

This view shows Horn Head in the distance. It is said that the day my great grandfather departed Ireland (from nearby Derry) his friends lit a huge bonfire on the edge of this peninsula to send him away knowing there was always a fire burning for him back home in Ireland.

A view of the Irish coastline in County Donegal. The landscape leading down to the sea is brownish yellow and depicts very rocky, inhospitable soil with a stretch of sandy beach along a quiet cove. Near the beach is a grouping of ten homes, barns and other smaller supply buildings. In the far distance is the commanding peninsula of Horn Head, jutting out into the ocean. Blue sky above is beginning to be over taken by grayish rain clouds coming from the left side of the photo.

Wild and remote Tory Island

My great grandfather spoke Irish and spent time fishing in and around Tory Island, which is the most northern and remote island in Ireland. Today Irish is still the official language and the island has a sovereign king. There is a small boat that ferries passengers from the mainland a few times a day and the crossing can be very rough.

View of the rock laden beach near the ferry dock on wild Tory Island, the northern most island in Ireland. The waves are crashing on the rocks, creating foamy white surf and the drab gray seawall protects the many houses seen in the background from the wild coastal waters. In amongst the homes, with their concrete walls and slate roofs is a 4th century stone tower, still barely standing.

Tory Island has more sheep than humans. At least in the winter months when the rock feels hibernated away. I write more about my experiences visiting this intriguing kingdom in the article, Wild Tory Island — the magic of remote Ireland.

Sheep graze on a rocky patch of a cliff area on Tory Island, north of County Donegal. There are six sheep with white faces and thick wool and two are curiously looking directly at the camera. The gray water frames the distance of the photo while rough, brownish grass tucks in the forefront of the shot.
A traditional Irish home on Tory Island in County Donegal. The house is a vibrant purple with neon green trim and the three windows are framed with yellow color. The roof is slate with moss sporadically clinging to the surfaces and seagulls sit on top of the chimneys. The neighboring home is darker soot like black.

The beautiful, dramatic Donegal coastline

A shot of Muckish Mountain hiding in the clouds while crossing the sea from Tory Island back to the seaside port of Magheraroarty, which is near Falcarragh.

The icy blue North Atlantic Ocean from a ferry boat crossing between Tory Island and the mainland Donegal in Ireland. The waves are rolling as a cloud layer in the distance slowly sneaks away from the mountains in the background, including just the cap of Muckish Mountain. The sky above is already a vibrant shade of light blue.

The sea is a very important part of the culture of Ireland and in particular Donegal. The coastline is varied and beautiful with wide sandy beaches and coastal rocks with tide pools and kelp beds.

An assortment of sea plants, including brownish yellow kelp whips and olive green seaweed. This is an up close shot taken on Portsalon Beach in Donegal Ireland.

Fanad Head Lighthouse. While there is no longer a need for this traditional lighthouse system there is a small year round hotel that makes use of the former living quarters.

Fanad Head Lighthouse in Donegal Ireland. The statuesque building is white and resembles an Irish house except the distinct lighthouse tower that is white with three windows leading up to the round glass encased light. The decking around the light is re. The building is situated atop jagged rocks with patches of green grass holding on. The sky is a collage of clouds and blue sky with a buttery yellow glow in the background.

Awe inspiring winter sunrise from Portsalon beach.

Sunrise from Portsalon Beach in Donegal Ireland. The tide is out and the wet sands glows with a reflection of the streaks of pinks mixed with gray clouds and blue sky. In the distance the coastline still is dark awaiting more light of the day.

The bay near Dunfanaghy has tidal sways each day.

The photo of Dunfanaghy Bay shows the tide out and a blue fishing boat with red underpaint run aground on the muddy floor of the dry bay. In the distance is the sprawling settled of Dunfanaghy with rolling hills in the background. The foreground of the shot shows the grassy bank of the bay with a small blue row boat.

Interior Donegal hosts quintessential views of rolling hills and peaceful villages

Ballyarr Estate, near charming Ramelton.

An Irish estate with three roofs and manicured grounds is seen through a thicket of old deciduous trees. A rich green pasture with slight roll in the elevation connects the grove of trees with the home.
Looking out a narrow paned window framed with a custard yellow paint. Outside, the light is bright and shines upon many varieties of trees, both fir and oak, with a manicured grassy lawn and bright green shrubs.
Rolling hills of Donegal Ireland with a herd of sheep laying down after a night's sleep. The morning fog still surrounds the valley in between the pasture and the rolling hills and just the tops of the father landscape is visible amidst blue sky with puffy white clouds.

Bird’s eye view of Donegal

In contrast to life at sea level, Errigal Mountain is almost 2,500 feet and the tallest point in County Donegal. While the elevation would be considered a mere hill in Pacific Northwest standards, the climb has quite a vertical feel to it. When the wind chimes up a real wild ride is coming.

The sharp peak of Errigal Mountain rises up above the lowlands of Donegal Ireland below. The peak is triangular in nature and rocky with patches of brownish green grass. There are two hikers, a man wearing black jacket and hunting pants and a woman wearing a read coat and white hat, making their way back down the mountain. The sky is a light blue.

Mixing the sea with the mountains, Slieve League Cliffs do not disappoint. The rocky park hosts miles of hiking trails and is located in the southern part of County Donegal.

Roadway winding around a cliff in Slieve League national Park in Ireland. The road is a mix of asphalt and gravel and is framed by large chunks of granite amidst green grass that is tight to the ground. In the background beyond the dramatic rocks is the North Atlantic Ocean, vast and wide.

The cliffs drop 2,000 feet to the ocean and are considered the highest in Europe.

Slieve League in Donegal Ireland is the highest cliffs in Europe, at over 2000 feet. This shot shows the dramatic view from atop the cliffs looking down into the water, with waves crashing against the rocks, creating bands of white seafood. The water is dark blue and the cliffs have patches of green grass amongst the gray and brown rocks.

Magical Glenveagh National Park

The second largest national park in Ireland is truly awe inspiring. While it’s easy to park and take the shuttle van to the modern-day castle for a tour, hiking reaps many rewards.

This view of Glenveagh National Park in Donegal Ireland looks down at the 20th century castle which is almost hidden amongst a large grove of green trees following the bank of the vast lough, with still waters reflecting the blue sky and the tall hills on the opposite side.

Trails hug the placid lough with an unbelievable scale of sky to mountain to water.

The beautiful Loch at Glenveagh National Park is a perfect mix of placid water, reflecting the massive hills of granite and tight green grass as well as the blue sky with puffy white clouds.

The spirit of Donegal remains in my heart

I feel fortunate to have a bloodline reaching back to this lush land full of velvety green rolling hills and wild powerful coastal surf. No matter the season, Donegal provides abundance of character and a feeling of peace. I hope these photos offer a glimpse into this beautiful world and inspire wandering of your own. If you would like more information on planning a visit to Ireland or this part of the country please reach out to me.

Interested in more Ireland? Check out my post on experiencing the mystic winter solstice at Newgrange, an ancient Celtic site just outside Dublin.

Follow me on Pinterest and pin one of the tiles below to your board.

A traditional Irish home on Tory Island in County Donegal. The house is a vibrant purple with neon green trim and the three windows are framed with yellow color. The roof is slate with moss sporadically clinging to the surfaces and seagulls sit on top of the chimneys. The neighboring home is darker soot like black.
Sheep graze on a rocky patch of a cliff area on Tory Island, north of County Donegal. There are six sheep with white faces and thick wool and two are curiously looking directly at the camera. The gray water frames the distance of the photo while rough, brownish grass tucks in the forefront of the shot.