Three nature packed days in Sitka, Alaska

View of the Russian Church and Sitka Alaska with the mountains in the backdrop. — *Beautiful Sitka, Alaska was formerly known as* **Novo-Arkhangelsk** *(or* **New Archangel***) under Russian rule. The year round population is almost 9,000 people.*

Three nature packed days in Sitka, Alaska is a great idea, especially in the summer. We’re on the water in a the bay outside Sitka, Alaska on a 24 foot aluminum fishing boat. The six of us include the guide and the motor is stopped as we gaze out into the icy blue waters, looking for signs of life.

*On the watch for humpback whales on the open water looking back towards commanding Baranof Island.*

I’m on the bow of the boat looking toward 11 o’clock just as a humpback whale propels its massive body entirely into the air to do a “free willy” type breach. He’s probably a youth humpback whale, and only a hundred feet away.

Have to click fast! The tale of a humpback whale heading down to the bottom of the ocean to eat. — *Have to click fast! Humpback whale heading down to the bottom to eat.*

But he’s not the only show – we continue to view humpback whales surfacing as if all around us, bobbing up to blow raspy air through their holes and dunking back down again. As if they are synchronized swimmers, two on the 3 o’clock side of the boat surface to blow air and then quickly make a run for the bottom of the ocean, flapping their large tales as they go vertical, a maneuver I learned was called fluking.

*A view of Mount Edgecumbe, a dormant volcano from the vantage of St. Lazaria Wildlife Refuge.*

After fluking these whales will be eating at the bottom of the sea for about 10 minutes, according to the guide. That’s a long time to hold a breath.

The sharp cliffs of St. Lazaria Wildlife Refuge are impressive. Humans are not allowed on this island, also known as "Puffin Island." — *The sharp cliffs of St. Lazaria Wildlife Refuge are impressive. Humans are not allowed on this island, also known as “Puffin Island.”*

A feeling of fascination sets in, and being on a small boat able to get so close is amazing, especially with no other tours on the sea around us.

Seals hang out on some rocks in the middle of the bay while seagulls and other birds look on. A small island off the coast of Sitka, Alaska. — *Seals hang out on some rocks in the middle of the bay while seagulls and other birds look on.*

The rest of the three hours in the water allow us the chance to see puffins, sea otters, seals, sea lions and many other types of bird life, not to mention the beauty of Baronof Island from the water.

"Puffin Island" as it's known around these parts, looks like something out of Game of Throwns. Many different varieties of birds call this rock home, including the namesake Puffin. The actual name is St. Lazaria Island. — *“Puffin Island” as it’s known around these parts, looks like something out of Game of Throwns. Many different varieties of birds call this rock home, including the namesake Puffin.*

Prologue: I’ve been to Alaska many times and seen a variety of animals, but these three nature packed days in Sitka, Alaska felt very different.

I grew up on a farm in Northwest Oregon and spent most of my childhood around animals. Cattle, pigs, sheep, dogs, cats, chickens, deer, you name it. I especially loved pigs and eventually raised them on a small scale farm for about 10 years. The 10 year old version of me spent hours outside watching these super intelligent animals explore in their giant pen which encompassed parts of the nearby forest. When there were babies I enjoyed observing the new mothers and piglets, as they talked to one another. It was as if part of my soul was truly connected to these animals and the beauty of the farm environment.

The deep forests of Sitka, Alaska in the Historical park. — *The deep forests of Sitka remind me of the abundant wildlife near my home in Scappoose while growing up.*

As I got older I’m not sure what happened to shake off this spiritual connection to the animals but I bet it was to protect my heart and emotions from a constant loss. Intellectually I knew the purpose of my farm and my goals to earn money to pay for college, but in my heart it made me sad to see the animals I raised go away to slaughter.

Forest life in Sitka, Alaska shows us a remarkable balance. — *Forest life shows us a remarkable balance.*

So up til now, animal watching, like the whales in Sitka, would be interesting but at a distance from my emotions and spirit.

Part I: Arrival in Sitka and bear spray

Sitka is located in the SE handle part of the state of Alaska and is an easy 2-hour nonstop flight from Seattle. Sometimes the flights make quick stops in places like Ketchikan or Juneau, but it’s relatively easy barring any weather issues.

Alaska Airlines Boeing 737 getting ready for another departure. In the summer there are two nonstop flights from Sitka to Seattle with a few other one-stop options via Ketchikan and Juneau. In the winter the options pare down to a flight or two. — Alaska Airlines Boeing 737 getting ready for another departure. In the summer there are two nonstop flights to Seattle with a few other one-stop options via Ketchikan and Juneau. In the winter the options pare down to a flight or two.

We arrive to a bustling terminal and one of the Alaska Airlines agents, who knows my friend Elliott, calls us over to offer a can of bear spray for us to use when hiking. It seems there is a brown bear for every square mile on the island housing Sitka, and she wants us to be careful. She saw a bear on a hike just a few days before.

When considering three days in Sitka, Alaska, it’s good to be prepared and keep aware of the animals around you at all times.

It's about a two mile walk from the airport into the center of town, so we hoofed it. There are cabs and shuttle busses also available, but be prepared to wait - about 20 minutes at least for a cab unless you luckily find one idle. — It’s about a two mile walk from the airport into the center of town, so we hoofed it. There are cabs and shuttle busses also available, but be prepared to wait – about 20 minutes at least for a cab unless you luckily find one idle.

The scale of Sitka is one of my favorite things about this fishing hub and cruise port-of-call. The town area is compact and so close to the airport that it is an easy walk into town. I can’t say that I’ve walked from an airport to my hotel that was in the city in many other places.

*This bridge is the key architectural feature of Sitka, connecting the airport area and high school to the main part of town.*

The geography of the town, nestled in a bay with hundreds of islands makes for an excellent welcome committee and we wander through the minimal group of tourist shops past the onion domed Russian Orthodox Church, which is a replica of the one built in the early 1800’s when Alaska became a part of Russia. You see, Sitka was the Russian capitol of Alaska until the 1867 handover to the United States. The US purchased Alaska from Russia for $7.2M.

St. Michaels Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Sitka, Alaska, was originally built during the Russian rule in the 1800's but burnt down in a city fire in 1967. The blueprints were saved from the fire so an exact replica was able to rise up from the ashes. — St. Michaels Russian Orthodox Cathedral was originally built during the Russian rule in the 1800’s but burnt down in a city fire in 1967. The blueprints were saved from the fire so an exact replica was able to rise up from the ashes.

For three days in Sitka, Alaska, the best lodging seems to be in the city limits. During cruise season there are many tourists milling about the town, but still way less than my experiences in both Juneau and Ketchikan.

Local color abounds in Sitka, Alaska. — *Local color abounds in Sitka.*

Besides the nature packed views all around us, three days in Sitka, Alaska offers a number of quaint places to stop and whet the whistle and we end up crashing a happy hour party on the back of a tugboat-turned Airbnb.

We met up with some work colleagues who were renting this cool tugboat-turned-Airbnb for the weekend. I tried steering, but we didn't go anywhere. — *We met up with some work colleagues who were renting this cool tugboat-turned-Airbnb for the weekend. I tried steering, but we didn’t go anywhere.*

There are boats everywhere and the smell of salt water mixed with fish wafts through the pristine air. You know for sure you’re in a place that depends a lot on the fishing industry.

*Sitka has a number of different harbors in every direction, including a cruise terminal which is about 6 miles from the main city.*

Part II: Three days offers plenty of time to enjoy all the nature packed options that abound in Sitka, Alaska; explore in any direction.

During the day we wander south along the low tide flats of the bay, ending up at the Sitka National Historical Park, which houses an interesting totem pole walking trail amongst a thick forest of fir trees.

*Low tide flats near Indian River and the thousands of salmon waiting to swim up river.*

Ravens that must weigh 20 pounds each make their caws to us as we enter the thick woods. Although there are aggressive crows in Seattle, these buddies are massive and powerful animals. Quite talkative too.

*Big Bird would be proud. One of the many large ravens who inspired our walk along the bay.*

The totem park shows off the master craft of different tribes in SE Alaska, with each telling a distinct story. Animals in the woods, visiting settlers and spirits of ancestors are a few of the topics and the ornate carvings and color display to the world the deep history and culture of native peoples.

Tlinget Totem Pole park which is in the Sitka National Historical Park. Sitka, Alaska. — *Tlinget Totem Pole park which is in the Sitka National Historical Park.*

The forest is beautiful and alive with green in all directions and also evidence of death and rebirth through nursing logs that have fallen and now serve to prop up future generations of tree and plant life.

As if hiding deep in the green, the totem poles slowly appear along the forest walk, telling their particular story to the world. Sitka, Alaska. — *As if hiding deep in the green, the totem poles slowly appear along the walk, telling their particular story to the world.*

Even though we’re still earshot away from the closest harbor, this is a beautiful example of the nature world working together through cycles of birth, growth, death and rebirth.

*Decaying logs serve to help the next generation grow up big and strong. A thriving eco-system and circle of life.*

Part III: The salmon run

The next surprise and delight in our three days adventure in Sitka, Alaska is a clearing in the trees and rocky steps down to what we learn is Indian River, where the pink salmon are beginning their long journey up the river to their spawning places. Along the shore a juvenile bald ealgle munches on a salmon as the nearby raven looks on with envy. There are seagulls and other birds around as well, hoping to get a piece of the action.

*Thousands of pink salmon wait their turn to continue jumping up the rapids of the river to their instinctual spawning locations.*

When looking closer into the river, we see thousands of salmon gently swimming to hold their place in the water. They wait for the tides to rise to use all their strength to jump up the rocks to the next area of water until they reach their spawning grounds miles up the river. In the meantime, they are prey to all kinds of predators including humans, eagles and bears.

Salmon are beautiful creatures and they peacefully stay in one place while patiently waiting for the signal from nature to continue onward. — *Beautiful creatures peacefully stay in one place while patiently waiting for the signal from nature to continue onward.*

What really speaks to me is the feeling of calm from the salmon. Acting on instinct, they will all be dead within a few weeks after working so hard to bring forth the next generation of fish. They even seem okay providing themselves as food for the animals around them.

A placard showing the life cycle of the pink salmon, which happen to be the species we see on this day.

Filing in line for their turn up the river. Waiting, energizing, gently swimming. Watching the flow is similar to viewing koy fish in a pond but ten times more magical; these fish are in the wild and on a journey that’s been repeated for thousands of years.

There is no mistaking what they must do – their missions are set. There is something very peaceful about this.

Over the course of the weekend we went back to watch the salmon a number of times. I never tired of this viewing experience which was the mix of quietude and action in perfect symphony.

Part IV: Well nourished

An example of this circle of life, of course, is that Sitka has a number of really excellent restaurants; places serving the freshest and tastiest seafood, including salmon. It’s expensive to eat by nature of Alaska, but worth the money in this costal enclave. Some favorites below:

Oysters from nearby Prince of Wales Island were among the best I've ever had. Beak restaurant rocks it. Sitka, Alaska. — *Oysters from nearby Prince of Wales Island were among the best I’ve ever had. Beak restaurant rocks it.*

Beak Restaurant. We think this actually is Be Alaska. This organic eatery served up outstanding oysters and a halibut burger that was next level. So great that we returned for Sunday brunch. Can’t miss it, right under the big bridge in the old telegraph house.
The Fish Eye. Organic eatery in a little strip mall that feeds you things like Acai bowls and breakfast crepes. Delicious coffee and other pastries as well. We also enjoyed this place twice during the visit.
Highliner Coffee. Definitely a local place usually with a line six people deep. The coffee quality can easily compete with the best in Seattle. Also looked like the grab and go breakfast items, like burritos, were popular and tasty.
Mean Queen. Three locations in the area. One has great pizza and salads to accompany while the second has more traditional burgers and such. We didn’t eat at the third. This joint is also considered gay friendly.
Sitka Hotel. Hotel with a saloon and bar that serves good food.
Pioneer Bar. A crusty bar oozing with history. The clientele seems to change by the time of day but worth a stumble in for a drink.
Baronof Island Brewery. On the other side of the totem park off the road behind the gas station. They serve up great local brews and the people are friendly.

Old cable house near the big bridge houses yummy ba ak. Sitka, Alaska — *Old cable house near the big bridge houses yummy ba ak.*

Part V: For the love of bears

Fortress of the Bear is the final piece to my rekindled love for animals. From the name I didn’t really know what to expect.

The location is past about 5 miles of nature outside Sitka, Alaska along a road that hugs the side of a hill of trees and looks out upon a beautiful arm of the bay with a gorgeous aquamarine tint of water.

Fortress of the Bear is located about 5 miles out of Sika, Alaska town and entry is $15 for adults. Cab ride there will run $20 each way. — Fortress of the Bear is located about 5 miles out of town and entry is $15 for adults. Cab ride there will run $20 each way.

Cabs in Sitka feel sparse, but mostly because they’re all engaged during the cruise season. The good news is that cabs don’t have much roadway to cover, but prepared to wait at least 20 minutes. The cab to Fortress of the Bear is $20 each way, and the office can call a return cab for you since there isn’t really cell service out there.

Fortress of the Bears roster. Meet the bears. These are the four adult brown bears that arrived as cubs when the shelter first opened in 2007. — Meet the bears. These are the four adult brown bears that arrived as cubs when the shelter first opened in 2007.

Ok, back to the bears. Fortress of the Bears was established as a refugee for orphaned bear cubs that would otherwise be shot to avoid starvation or being nuisances in various Alaskan communities. They are housed in former pulp mill mixing basins that are round, have 20 foot high walls and offer enough space for the bears to roam freely. It’s $15 to enter for adults. Well worth it to me.

Fortress of the Bears in Sitka, Alaska. There are three main areas housing the bears. This is the group of adult brown bears, inside an old pulp mixing container when this was a paper mill back in the day. There is another of these round areas for two cubs and then several black bears live in another fenced in area. The black bears are much smaller so they remain separated from the larger brown bears. — There are three main areas housing the bears. This is the group of adult brown bears, inside an old pulp mixing container when this was a paper mill back in the day. There is another of these round areas for two cubs and then several black bears live in another fenced in area. The black bears are much smaller so they remain separated from the larger brown bears.

The lively bears are trained to follow a number of commands from the rangers in the visitor center. While there is no doubt they are captive, a real stream flows through this environment. Wild salmon are stocked in the stream in season and the bears fish naturally.

The alpha bear Toby, munching on a piece of fish at Fortress of the Bears in Sitka, Alaska. — *Toby munching on a piece of fish.*

I’ve seen bears in many zoos in my life, but this felt very different. Or maybe I’m different now?

Either way, there was a wonderful connection with these animals, who seemed to show humor, curiosity and other emotions. Toby, the alpha bear, lifted her nose to smell something in the air that was probably the perfume of a visitor.

The two rescue bear cubs put on quite a show playing in the water with this log (and each other.) — *The two cubs put on quite a show playing with this log and each other.*

We were there for easily an hour, which surprised me when I finally looked at the time.

Fortress of the Bears in Sitka, Alaska also has an area for the smaller black bears. — *Black bears too!*

What sticks with me now as I explain my experience is Toby’s final trick for the trainer. The command instructed her to make the motion for “more,” which looks something like putting the paws together as if praying. When she made the motion while looking upward towards me it was as if I could feel her curiosity and emotion.

Fortress of the Bear has four adult bears, including Chaik here, who moves into the water to go towards the food at feeding time. — *Chaik moves into the water to go towards the food at feeding time.*

A long time dormant jolt of love for these animals came rushing back into me.

I appreciate the way Fortress of the Bear attraction offers visitors such an intimate up-close experience.

My friend Dante still had the bear spray for our planned hike, which reminded me that while these bears know tricks and are lovable, they are animals with protective instincts and vast power and their cousins in the woods are not so refined.

Part VI: Three days is more than enough time to enjoy nature packed hiking and beyond, in Sitka, Alaska.

Speaking of which, there are many great hikes in the region and I suggest using All Trails to look up the options. The locals recommend bear spray. Also, a great defense against a bear is scaring it away in the first place by talking loudly, wearing bells, or playing loud music when hiking to avoid a meeting. Or maybe all three?

There are many beautiful hiking trails around Sitka, Alaska with peaks, waterfalls, rivers and streams. — *No filter needed. There are many beautiful hiking trails around Sitka with peaks, waterfalls, rivers and streams.*

We visited Sitka, Alaska for three days, between Friday and Monday, which seemed perfect to fit in many different experiences. The weather is similar to Seattle, so we wore light layers. And for the boat trip a light jacket is a must because it is much colder and windier on the open water.

Whale watching is possible even from the coast line, such as this park where stationed binoculars are available. — *Platform for gazing into the bay to check on the whales.*

I’ve traveled to Alaska many times, but this visit was very special in the time it allowed me to mix quiet with activity, much like the salmon waiting in the river to jump up to a higher level and continue their journey.

Beautiful scenery on the 2 mile walk from the airport at Sitka, Alaska to the town. — *Sitka is a peaceful place with the perfect mix between activities, nature, peace and action.*

I’m working hard to move my world back to the wonder of the 10 year old version of me, the boy who loved to quietly hang with the animals and learn from them. Sitka was the perfect location to help me along the way.