Newgrange Ireland winter solstice. What it’s like to experience the shortest day of the year in a Stone Age neolith.

Matthew

4 years ago

Experience the winter solstice at 5000 year old Newgrange in Ireland on the longest night and shortest day of the year.

My Irish ancestors might’ve wandered the same hills throughout the Boyne Valley thousands of years ago, and I feel their energy as hundreds of kindred spirits join hands in a circle to honor the shortest day of the year with a minute of strikes on a ceremonial gong held by a woman dressed in white. The Newgrange Ireland winter solstice experience brings to life mystical vibes full of promise of more light in the days ahead and hopes for prosperity in the year to come.

In this post I’ll share with you my experience at the 2018 winter solstice at Newgrange in Ireland, along with travel tips.

Part I: Mound of rocks atop a grassy hill – what is Newgrange?

While the pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge relics get more press and notoriety, the Irish version of such mystic antiquity is Newgrange, located about an hour northwest of Dublin in the Boyne Valley and is even older. Dating back to 3,200 BCE, this intriguing mound of rocks and grass is a fascinating example of Stone Age “technology.”

Newgrange is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the Stone Age passage tomb from afar, as you’d enter the site from the shuttle busses. The entrance to the passage tomb is on the far right of the mound.

Newgrange up close. Contains about 200,000 tons of stone. Some from as far away as 70 miles. Scientists suspect these rocks were leftover from the Ice Age and collected from the ground and assembled without requiring any further carving. Here you can see the layers up close from the larger boulders on the base to smaller stones with decorative design up to the grass that covers the “roof.”

There are 37 Stone Age tombs in this area of similar age, of which Newgrange is one. It’s been called a passage tomb, including burial of the dead, but probably more significant than all the others because of a special feature, with a purpose still unclear today.

Every year at the winter solstice, the sun rises in such a way that a perfect ray of light enters a specially designed “window” and creeps in along a corridor that runs about 70 feet into the center cavern deep within the mound of rocks. It is still unclear to the world why this feature was so precisely created. Perhaps to mark the beginning of a new phase of light and the end of winter.

The entrance to Newgrange. The top opening is where the sunlight exactly glides through on the three solstice days (Dec 20-22). The lower entryway is hit-your-head type clearance and the large rock protecting the doorway is a 5,000 year old stone from a quarry about 70 miles away with ancient hieroglyphics.

This is fascinating to me and too much to write here, but if you’re interested I like this site, from Ancient History Encyclopedia.

The winter solstice is December 21 and the light rays enter on the day before and after as well. Because the cavern inside the mound can only hold so many people, there is a lottery every September and 60 people are selected for each of the three days to be there right at 8:58am when the sun enters into the passage tomb.

Each year almost 30,000 people enter a lottery to witness the Newgrange Ireland winter solstice from a stone cavern deep within the neolith.

The lottery is each year in September. Try your luck.

Every year at the winter solstice the sunrise light creeps into the long corridor leading to the domed cave in the middle.

Part II: Ireland is in my blood

Ireland has a very special place in my heart and I’ve been many times. A great deal of my heritage is Irish, so I’ve always had an affinity for this island and the people and endless shades of green. Also been to Newgrange several times, but never in the darkest hour of winter.

Mystical country road at winter sunrise in County Donegal, Ireland.

It doesn’t sound particularly appealing to visit Ireland in December, but my fascination with the mystical Boyne Valley and in particular the solstice experience at Newgrange motivated me to plan a month in Ireland visiting favorite sites while also providing time to reconnect with my heritage.

The darkness prevails, with daylight lasting between about 9:00am and 4:00pm.

There is something about the faint winter glow of light that appeals to the soul.

I can imagine the pre-Celtic people of 3,200 BCE experiencing damp, dark, velvety green Ireland in the dead of winter looking for a sign that the light was eventually coming back.

Part III: Newgrange Ireland winter solstice experience

So your luck is not 60 in 30,000? No problem. You can still have a wonderful, mystical solstice experience at Newgrange, and surprisingly there are not many people around as the sun rises to ancient Celtic drums being banged by spiritual shaman in old time garb.

Although I opted for an official Winter Solstice Experience, everyone is welcome at the actual event, including these Celtic drummers wearing colorful period costumes.

Not really knowing how it all works I signed up for a Newgrange Ireland Winter Solstice Experience, which also included a sunset ceremony at Dowth, another of the larger neolithic passage tomb mounds about a mile away from Newgrange.

There are a few logistical options, but most people did the overnight package which offers space to sleep on the floor, or dormitory style bedding and a few basic meals. All through the evening between the sunset ceremony and morning at Newgrange there are varieties of meditation sessions, drumming, biodanza, sauna and socializing which are all included. The cost of the full experience was 84€.

Having been now, I can say that it’s entirely possible to do this on your own, but I enjoyed meeting new people in the spiritual environment and not getting any sleep.

I flew into Dublin, got my little red rental car and headed to the nearby town of Navan

This wasn’t my first time driving on the left side of the road, but why not wear the safety accessory? Be sure to buy the full rental car coverage before you get to the rental car counter. Also note that most US credit card companies won’t offer the normal coverage in Ireland, UK or Jamaica. Finally, note that I was still parked in the rental car lot when I snapped this shot!

The sleepy town of Navan is about the closest to Newgrange with lodging options. The hotel front desk suggested I take a walk along the Guinness colored Boyne River Walk, which was just across the bridge from me and winds through the sacred valley. The wintry waters and dimming dusk glow of light seemed to bring the folktales about the river and the fish in it to life.

Navan is a sleepy little Irish town that lights up for the holidays.

I was ready for my Newgrange Ireland winter solstice experience

The solstice experience convenes around dusk at beautiful Townley Hall, an 18th century Georgian estate which now runs as a meeting space for special events like this. The accommodations are basic but the location great for Newgrange.

Most of the participants were more local than I expected, being primarily from Ireland and UK. I met a family from Brazil visiting their son in Dublin, and then there were a few yanks like me.

Townley Hall Main House, An 18th century Georgian home renovated into a meeting/retreat space. Located a few miles from Newgrange and the hub of our Winter Solstice Experience.

Townley Hall has several dormitory areas for guests of the Solstice Experience to sleep. My single bed was against a large window that looked out upon rolling hills of sheep grazing.

Sunset ceremony at sacred Dowth, near Newgrange Ireland

The turnoff for Dowth is hardly marked, so look for this friendly Babe on the farm across the street. There is a sheep gate that you walk through to reach the ancient mounds. It’s rustic, so be prepared for a little off-roading, especially in the winter. (Photo credit: Inka.)

I drove my little red rental car a mile down the road to Dowth for the sunset ceremony, which was very intense. Imagine a mound of dirt with the middle hollowed out, then inside the hollowed area two concentric circles of people. The men of the group on the inside circle looking out to the circle of women.

While shaman played drums and flutes we gazed into the eyes of the person across from us for a minute, then the men rotated right while the women stayed put.

Shaman cleansing each participant entering the sacred passage tomb area of the Dowth mound. The circle of people is forming in the background while a few others are taking in the view from the top of the Stone Age tomb. Unlike Newgrange, this site has yet to be fully excavated.

The eyes are the gateway to the soul of each person, and this ceremony honored the soul of the year past in order to make a clean start in the year ahead. The men and women were separated to represent the Ying and yang (male and female) energy that we all possess.

It was freezing and I had a runny nose, so I tried really hard not to take away from the moment, but at times it was a little awkward staring into strangers eyes thinking about my nose running and not wanting to break the stare until I absolutely had to blow my nose. An excellent ice breaker to meeting new people!

The sun quickly set on the previous year while the bright moon with a buttery glow welcomed new experiences and life in the future.

The final moment of the sunset experience on the mound of Dowth as the moon rises above several solstice experience participants.

The longest night was a New Year celebration

Back at the retreat center there were various activities going on for the 80 or so participants. The Biodanza “Dance of Life” session is particularly memorable, mostly because it was so playful and fun and that is where I met my friend Inka.

The leader played all kinds of music with various beats, and we danced around the room with a feeling associated with the song. From merengue to Mozart. When Celine Dion’s “I’m Alive” came over the air I noticed a smiling German woman with red hair light up! Her energy was infectious and we became fast friends over the next 24 hours.

Inka was my solstice sister. Taken the next day at the entrance to the passage tomb at Newgrange.

Much like a mountain climb, there isn’t much time for sleeping. The retreat like atmosphere continued into the late evening and we woke up around 6am to prepare for the big sunrise with breakfast and a solstice morning meditation.

Dawn on an Irish country road

I rode with Inka and her friend, who remarked that 2018 was a great year for them and they were thankful and looking forward to the year ahead. I shared my own experience, 2018 kinda sucked, and also optimism for the future.

We parked on the side of the road about a mile away and walked, dodging the shuttle busses, Garda (police) and other solstice goers. A great sense of community and camaraderie.

People had drums and other instruments and although there were some colorful renaissance-fest type outfits most of us were wrapped up in more modern thermal gor tex selections. I’m pretty sure the ancients would’ve thrown on a warm North Face parka any day over layers of burlap and fur.

My solstice sisters on the road to Newgrange (behind us) and a new year. (Photo credit: Inka)

Normally, guests need to go to the visitor center and buy tickets and take shuttle busses to the site. This preserves the feeling of ancient times because the tourists are throttled in at intervals that prevent total mob scenes. The visitor center is also interesting with information on Newgrange and artifacts around the area.

During the solstice, entrance is free and you can take the shuttle from the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre or walk up and everyone seems to go with it.

The banging of the gong to bring in the new year at the Newgrange Ireland winter solstice

The banging of the gong to signify the longest night of the year is over and light will return to the skies in the months to come.

We gathered in a circle around on the great lawn in front of the passage tomb entrance and held hands as the sun came up. There were several ceremonial gongs and we all sang out in vibrating tones to welcome the sun. For about 20 minutes, so good thing I have pretty strong lungs.

It was an overcast day so no piercing ray of light, but the spirit was around us and it felt important to be experiencing this with so many other people full of love, light and optimism. After the chanting we made smaller circles of people and offered our own intentions (akin to New Years resolution) to the group.

Winter solstice enthusiasts gather hand in hand to honor the end of the longest night of the year, chanting for over 20 minutes as the sun rises. Newgrange (in background) is a 5,000 year old neolith.

After the official sunrise, the lucky lottery winners depart the internal cavern and the general public on the lawn has a chance to go in and experience the simulation of the light entering the tomb passage. Our original group was #16 which would’ve meant waiting 4 hours for our chance but since it was very cold so many people left before their turn to enter.

I got Inka some coffee from the teardrop coffee truck to convince her to hold on until our turn to enter. And soon enough it was our chance.

Preparing to enter the passage tomb with smiling kind of energy in the air. The rock that stands in front of the entrance was sourced about 70 miles away and has 5,000 year old hieroglyphic carvings.

To enter the corridor to the cavern there is a large stone with hieroglyphics to cross over, and then a short doorway and tight walkway that could make some feel very claustrophobic. Once in the main cavern there is a bit more room and the docent reviews the information and then turns on the simulation to show how the sun slowly creeps up into the center of the dome. Even the simulation gave me goosebumps.

The docent shared that while the climate is often overcast in December, the ray of light is usually seen at least one of the three days. This year it was the day before our visit, on December 20th.

Inside the cavern, about 70 feet into the center of the mound. The rocks are so perfectly placed that despite the dampness in the soil above no moisture enters the cavern.

Full of ancient grace and energy for the year ahead we left the cavern and drove back to the retreat center. Soon enough I was on my way to Donegal and left my new friends with an experience that warmed my heart and inspired me on the way to a beautiful 2019.

Travel tips to plan your Newgrange Ireland winter solstice experience

1. Flights to Ireland

Aer Lingus uses A321 aircraft like this one for their European/UK routes. They have an acceptable mix between more comfortable seating and service and competitive fares.

Fly into Dublin. You can coordinate a larger trip with flight into Belfast or Shannon, but for this session let’s focus on Dublin’s airport, with service everywhere in the world. There are several low cost carrier options, albeit be prepared to pay for everything a la carte. Even water. Look for How to Airline, coming soon on this blog but for now here are some hints.

Flights from North America to Ireland

American, Delta and United all serve Dublin directly from their hubs in the US. It’s a little under 7 hours between NYC and Dublin and the flights are mostly overnight.
If you want to feel like you’re already in Ireland upon boarding the plane, then Aer Lingus, which is the national airline of Ireland, is a great option. I’ve always enjoyed their service. They are growing US destinations, now offering nonstops from LAX, SFO, SEA and other cities like Hartford, CT across the country to Dublin. You can earn Alaska Airlines and United miles on Aer Lingus if that makes more sense for your points. Just under 10 hours from SEA and slightly longer from SFO & LAX.

Flights from everywhere else to Ireland

Ryanair is the other Irish carrier that mastered the Ultra Low Cost model that everyone else emulates today. Tight seating but for an hour or so it’s okay. You’ll pay for everything a la carte, from water to oxygen but the fares are great and they have nonstop flights everywhere from Dublin.
The main European carriers like Air France and Lufthansa all serve Dublin from their hubs and in general compete on pricing with Ryanair and Easyjet.
Emirates and Etihad serve Dublin from their hubs in the Middle East. Connections to Australia and everywhere else in the world.

2. How much time to plan in Ireland for this experience

You can easily do Newgrange and the other area sites in one long day loop from Dublin, which usually makes the most sense. Since the airport is on the north side of the city, it would be convenient to do this day trip either at the start or end of your Irish visit.

The Newgrange Hotel is a centrally located spot in Navan, Ireland, which is conveniently only about 15 miles away from Newgrange.

If time is tight, remain sleeping in Dublin. However, if you’d like to spend some time pondering the life of the Celtic kings and have a car, then take a night and stay in the area.

This was the first visit where I stayed in the area and I’m glad I did. The lodging options are average, but you should be outside exploring anyway. I stayed in Navan but Trim is another great option with Trim Castle Hotel just across the street from a cool castle to explore in the center of town.

3. Transportation to get to the Newgrange Ireland winter solstice experience

Newgrange is not really set up conveniently for public transportation, so here are your best options. I’ve done a variety of these at different visits:

My rental car was tiny but effective on the narrow Irish roads. This is in the very north of County Donegal, December 2018.

Get your Irish cousin Owen to drive you around. This is both entertaining and convenient.
Rent a car. I needed a car for a month, so this was part of my trip. While you can do Dublin without one, any day trips to outer areas, like Newgrange, are much easier with some little compact thing. And get the full insurance for sure.
Take a day tour from Dublin. Trip Advisor has some good ones or ask around your lodging. Look for the operators that include Newgrange, the Hills of Tara, Battle of Boyne and Trim castle. Be mindful the tours around 35€ usually don’t include the entrance fees, while the more expensive 60€ do. They probably wash out even, but it’s easier to have all the details taken care of by the operator.

4. Other attractions in the Boyne Valley area around Newgrange Ireland

The Boyne Valley area is a very sacred part of Ireland and there are a number of other things to see in the area if you have time or are on a tour.

Trim castle is a reconstructed Norman castle that dates back to 845.

Hill of Tara, where Celtic kings were anointed, mostly in the first centuries AD. While it might seem like just a cow pasture with some interestingly shaped mounds, let your imagination run wild with the inspirational sweeping views of the Boyne Valley. Breath in the air, relax and fly away to another time in history.
Battle of the Boyne Visitor Center This commemorates the largest battle to ever take place in Ireland with the English thrown, French dominance in Europe and religious power in Ireland at stake. There are a number of exhibits around the 1690 time period of the battle. Listen to some patriotic Irish ballads about the British to get in the mood.
Trim Castle. The largest Norman castle in Ireland, built in 1174. The grounds within the fortress walls are vast and the 20 sided main tower has held up really well over the years. A tour is required to see the main, most impressive part of the castle.
A few steps from my hotel in Navan, I enjoyed a walk along the bustling Guinness colored Boyne River. The walk goes for miles and miles, so you can adjust to your energy level. I went at dusk and it was the perfect winter stroll to get me into the slower pace of Ireland. The trailhead comes up on Google Maps as Boyne Road River Walk Car Park.

5. When to go to Ireland

Well, if you want the solstice experience that’s obvious. I loved being in Ireland around the Christmas holiday – there was a very cozy happy feeling everywhere. I am from the Pacific Northwest so I might be used to dark, gloomy winter weather. The holiday lights and Guinness help out a lot.

McHugh’s cottage, just down the road from my home in Donegal for many weeks. Christmas Eve 2018.

Generally I love Ireland in the spring, May seems perfect. Summer weather is usually better than other times of the year and you get the maximum daylight hours to experience everything. But then summer is packed with everyone else with the same idea.

Speaking of packing, take lots of layers. You never really know which way the weather will turn, winter, spring, summer or fall. It was definitely cold in the winter. As in wear-everything-in-your-suitcase freezing.

All photos are mine unless otherwise noted.