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Bracing in Bremerton — exploration in the time of the storm

A bronze statue of a father passing on a shipbuilding tool to his young son. They are standing in front of a giant propulsion screw of a ship.
A bronze statue of a father passing on a shipbuilding tool to his young son. They are standing in front of a giant propulsion screw of a ship.

Movement is in my bones. The same way I used to annoy coworkers in office meetings with a tapping ball point pen, I cannot seem to stay still. In the time of coronavirus I’ve turned social distancing into a tool to learn how to walk alone in nature — completely content and at peace. In this way, I’m thankful for my experiences discovering even more nooks and crannies of the Pacific Northwest.

This week, with exploring on my mind, I decided to try a place I’ve seen on the map, but never really knew what else existed beyond the ferry toll booth lanes for cars readying to return to Seattle.

I’m talking about Bremerton, Washington, on the Kitsap Peninsula — West of Seattle along the Salish Sea. I’ve passed through the area a few times, rushing to grab a Washington State Ferry back to Seattle, but something was calling me to satisfy my curiosities about this naval hub on a cold Wednesday morning in January.

The boat pulled away on schedule and I was in for a treat as the sun shone on the fresh snow covering the Olympic Mountain range — as if the mountains were singing in the heavens.  The entire ride was spent outside on the only tiny space of deck not cordoned off due to COVID and the wind howled as several seagulls accompanied the ferry.

What could be better than a nature-steeped sunny day, time away and a bit of exploring the unknown ahead?

Bremerton is the home of the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, and thousands of service members and their families. It is clear the local economy centers around the work these people, plus thousands more civilian employees, do in and around the giant campus of metal working, riveting, hammering and everything else the heavy industry entails. All this industry coexists with surrounding nature, punctuated by towering Mt. Olympus and his snowy friends in the Olympic Mountain Range.  

I was prepared ahead of time with the understanding that any indoor activity would be closed due to current restrictions around COVID in Washington State. So, it didn’t come as a surprise that all museums and ship tours were… closed due to COVID. That’s why nature has become my dear companion this past year.

Traveling anywhere these days art and civic creativity is the saving grace to exploration — as many sculptures and wall murals are outside and still accessible. In fact, last week I wrote about strolling through Seattle University and how it brought me joy to be able to experience the beautiful outdoor art available to the public. Civic creativity exists everywhere, including Bremerton. The interesting art installations along Pacific Avenue (the main drag) captivated me while wandering toward Rotary Park, an open green space situated along a quiet shoreline.

The park is home to an inspiring 9/11 memorial, and several tears welled up in my eyes as my fingers followed the torn rivets of the two pieces of steel girders salvaged from Ground Zero and donated to this poignant remembrance.  Given the current events in our country, I think the tears were also about my feeling that 9/11 was the last time our country came together in unison. The last 20 years have been full of military conflict, political jockeying and segregation of information, and peoples in the United States. I don’t consider the last 20 years all bad, but it feels like a cacophony of angst has built up into a tempest.

Although much was closed, there were signs of life in my walk about town. I stumbled upon tasty Khao Thai with a cozy outside seating area and a few quirky vintage clothing shops opened their doors by mid-day.  The Coffee Oasis is the type of joint that formerly held open-mic nights and acres of tables filled with computers clicking away. Now, the furniture is consolidated — roped off with bright yellow tape accompanied by handmade “You cannot sit here” signs. Nonetheless, caution tape won’t adhere to personality and human interaction, and, even behind masks, I could tell the college-age staff were smiling along with me in our jovial conversation. Plus, they brewed some great coffee for my afternoon perk.

The entire week before this junket across the Salish Sea, rain fell with a vengeance, providing over six inches of liquid in the Seattle area. All this wetness culminated in a high octane wind storm the night before my journey. My power flickered and the intermittent wailing outside brought about images of Mother Nature deep cleansing, so to speak, our world. That night I wondered what the morning would have in store.

The following day, as I sat at the 9/11 memorial at Rotary Park in Bremerton, my eyes re-focused on life bustling around me in the park. As if celebrating the end of the storm, a woman walked by with her dog and said hello to me. In fact, many people were walking their dogs in the park, authentically greeting one another, and engaged in their community. 

This energy continued throughout the day, as skateboarding teens jumped around me while crossing Manette Bridge and a 6 and 8 year-old ran in front of a shot of the interesting sculptures at Harborside Fountain Park.  Although spoiling that photo, they seemed aware of the environment and turned to politely say, “excuse us.” (Their mom was a few hundred feet away, running to catch up) 

Travel brings life… to life. It helps me understand my place in the world. And in all the embracing of new concepts, attitudes, cultures, language, food, or a different view of the Olympic Mountains, I’m always left with a feeling of optimism for the future. Because only good things can come when we take off our masks and try in earnest to understand each other.

Think back to a recent trip you’ve made in life — what were the challenging parts and where did you learn the most about yourself and others?

I wish you and our country peace in this week of reflection around the monumental impact Martin Luther King, and many who followed in his traditions, made on the world. 

I pray for a peaceful transfer of power to a new president and hopefully a brighter, more optimistic life ahead for our country and the planet.

Matthew

PS – Two recent articles highlight ideas to break out of the house and explore nature and local art.  Click on the photos below to jump to the website with all the information and more photos.

More Blog Posts

Check out these articles with ideas to get out of the house and explore, no matter the time of year.

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