All this talk about Kyiv (Kiev) these days reminds me of my own experience in Ukraine last July, 2019. I wasn’t sitting in a restaurant next to the American diplomats discussing official relations and military aid, but Kyiv is bustling with a feeling that you’re in the middle of a spy novel, waiting for Jason Bourne to come running out of a back alley to jump onto a scooter in order to weave an escape through traffic.
The largest city in Ukraine was established in the 5th century and cobblestone streets lead down narrow corridors which connect to larger corridors which lead to orthodox churches with bright golden spires lifting up to the heavens.
Giant squares feature sweeping views of the skyline mixed with firmly planted statues honoring the heroes of the past. Soviet era architecture is much more common in the suburbs, but the inner parts of the city seem to remain strongly steeped in a history that existed long before the USSR took hold.
The feel is welcoming, energetic and intriguing in a country struggling to maintain a unique identity in the world. The stately city is bursting with tasty food, friendly people, interesting sites and Cyrillic signs.
My arrival on a beautiful warm July evening combined with lodging a stone’s throw from lively Independence (Maiden) Square set me up for a cultural treat. The city was alive with action and most of it seemed to focus around this central crossroads of a metro area about the size of Seattle.
Ukraine’s history after the breakup of the Soviet Union has been very complicated and Independence Square was front and center to the turmoil around the dissolving of plans to join the EU in 2014. The square represents some painful times for the country but my experience seemed to reflect a more optimistic era beginning to come alive with a new president elected in April 2019 and a snap election for parliament taking place the day after my arrival.
The night at Maiden was alive with crowds of people hugging the steps of various monuments and architectural features in the rectangular park. Water fountains came alive with full dramatic jet streams to music akin to a Bellagio show in Vegas. Children and adults both were mesmerized by the shifting color tones shining on the fountains blowing spray in all directions.
What I loved about this nighttime experience was the feeling of camaraderie I felt amongst the citizens, who were out for an evening spent with loved ones. It was social and peaceful. Like in many cities, the McDonalds adjacent to the square was teeming with people awaiting Big Macs and ice cream cones.
My trip to Ukraine was a last minute add to a journey to Europe last summer with my sister Kelly that started in Berlin and moved on to the Baltic states of Lithuania and Latvia. I spent some time in Minsk before flying to Ukraine with the main goal to experience the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.
Unfortunately because of a time crunch I was left with only about 48 hours in Ukraine. Since one full day was devoted to the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone I had limited time in the large metropolis of over 3M people. Rest assured, it’s easy and fun to experience Kiev in one day, and I made the most of my time.
Check out my recent post Experience Kiev in one day. Or, if you just like pictures, click on this link Photo Gallery: Kiev, Ukraine.
Since I only scratched the surface in this whirlwind junket, I’m already planning another trip to this part of the world next summer, 2020. This time there will be more of everything planned.
Happy Travels!
Matthew
Kiev, THE Ukraine = Russian approach
Kyiv, Ukraine = Ukrainian preference
